Mary Jones Walk

                      Mary Jones, born 1784, was from a poor family. She lived in a small village called Llanfihangel-y-Pennant, situated at the foot of Cadair Idris, in the southern end of Snowdonia National Park. Her parents were devout Methodists. It was Mary`s desire to own her own Bible as the nearest copy she could read was some two miles away. As a result, Mary saved up enough money to buy her own. It took her six years to do so, but the nearest place she could purchase a Bible was in Tegid (Bala), some 28 miles away. One morning, in 1800, she set off to Bala, walking through mountainous terrain, to buy her own Bible from the Rev Thomas Charles. I`m not sure were I originally heard the story of Mary Jones, but I felt inspired to pay my own respects to her dedication and her belief, by walking the route she did.

Tyn-y-Ddol, the cottage where Mary was brought up, now with a memorial.

The cottage Tyn-y-Ddol is the obvious starting place for the journey. A short walk up the lane will bring you to the church of St Michael in Llanfihangel-y-Pennant, it was open and there is a exhibition of her story. It was worth taking the time to look around, it is a very special place.

St Michaels church in Llanfihangel-y-Pennant

Just a short walk from the church is a fantastic site, well worth a visit. Castle-y-Bere. Built around 1220 it was one of several castles built by Llewelyn the Great. The forces of King Edward 1 laid siege to the castle and it fell in 1282. Then retaken by the Welsh in 1294, apparently. Subsequently it fell in to ruin and is a rarely visited tourist attraction.

Initially, I headed through he mountain pass leaving the valley of Cwm Llan and heading for the Taly-Lyn valley. You would pass an old slate cottage. The cottage is long derelict with a Rowan tree growing from its chimney, there are several box and fruit trees in the garden.

 Looking back towards the Tal-y-Lyn lake you can just make out the parish church were Mary married Thomas Lewis Jones in 1831.

After 5 miles I entered Minffordd were I was glad to fill my water bottles and have some food. The next stage of the journey would be 6 miles and to the campsite I had planned to stay for the night, aware that a thunderstorm was behind me and would be chasing me all the way there. 

Now entering the expanse of the Cwm Hafod Oer valley I could see Aran Benllyn and Aran Fawddy to my right as I passed an old cowshed with an Icthus sign on the from wall. The Icthus fish has been a sign of Christianaity for 2000 years. 

 

Further on I walked through a beautiful wood, the grass verges are filled with wildflowers, the country lanes lined with Hazel and Oak.

On nearing the end of the second leg of my journey I passed Gwanas Farm, originally a hospice of the Knights Hospitaller Order, established before 1338.

While walking along a walled road I looked to my left to see magnificent views of Cadair Idris, and I realised just how far I had come. 

I soon found the campsite at Brithdir, weary after my 11 mile walk. It didn't take me long to set up my tent, eat and I fell in to a deep sleep, oblivious of the storm outside. The storm had passed over by morning so I waited for the tent to dry before packing it away. I had another 11 mile hike to do before I reached my next stop at Llanuwchllyn.

I left Brithdir and headed west along an old Roman Road Rhydmain. The walk was getting harder and my stops more frequent. However, the solitude was very comforting and I couldn`t help wonder how Mary Jones coped, probably a lot better than I was coping, I should think. 

There were beautiful views all around and walking alone through old country paths lined with ancient trees, pasture  land filled with wild bluebells and violets.

From the time I left Brithdir, some 5 miles past, I had not come across a single person on my walk, until a local farmer told me the storm had passed over to Bala and he wasn't expecting any rain until the evening. My backpack was heavy,there was a break in the cloud so I took the opportunity to rest by a beautiful Rowan tree, allowing myself time to listen to my favourite piece of music by Vaughan Williams, The Lark Ascending.

Bala finally came into view, although it would take me another couple of hours to reach the campsite at Llanuwchllyn.

I passed fantastic views of The Arenigs to my left, some walking in hills I have yet to do.

The path to the campsite took me past Pont-y-Pandy bridge. In 1781 the original bridge was swept away by a deluge. Sally Jones from Bala, later to become the wife of Thomas Charles, mentioned at the beginning of our journey, was almost lost. I spotted a lone heron in search of its food, which reminded me!!!!

The campsite at Llanuwchllyn was busy, a Bank Holiday Vintage Fair with exhibitions of tractors and such. Unfortunately the thunderstorms scattered the crowds. I huddled in my tent, forcing myself to get out and walk the 200 meters or so to freshen up. I soon found a table in the corner of the local pub and had a delicious meal and a very well earned drink of the local ale.

Once again, the weather in the morning favoured me. I spoke to a family of campers who couldn't believe I slept through the torrential rain that fell during the night. The inside lining of my tent was wet, which made my sleeping bag wet as I brushed against during the night. I had my last protein bar for breakfast and packed up my tent. I was aiming to reach Bala for lunch. The weather was warming up and the air was clear for my last few pictures as I set off for the last 6 miles around Bala Lake.

Again, I was alone as I walked avenues of trees and the beautiful valley of Glyn Gywer.

It was an easy choice to have a rest stop overlooking Bala Lake (Llyn Tegid).

I entered Bala around midday and found my way to the original site of Thomas Charles home. I wondered what site greeted Thomas when he opened the door to Mary, clutching her savings, having walked around 28 miles to his home to buy her own bible. I do know I would never have the strength of mind or body to carry out the walk in the same conditions as Mary did......barefoot.